I am slowly putting the finishing touches on my menu reader,
one which is more specific to Seville, but will also help
you when dining out in many parts of Spain. Once finished,
I will place a link in this section. For now you can refer
to the food dictionary in either English
to Spanish, or Spanish
The purpose of this intro is to describe how this section
is organized, what the little symbols mean and a little
note on how to read the addresses. The listings are broken
down by neighborhood, and at the top of each section I offer
a small description of the location. Listings go from more
expensive to cheap. You will see the following symbols used:
: Price, from
4 (expensive) to 1 (cheap), this is to offer an idea of the price range.
: Address of
the establishment. Important note: "c/" means
"Calle", as in "Street".
if available. Many do not have listings in phone books nor
offer business cards.
: Web page, if
: Type of food.
This is a tough one, and I have used my own system of classifying.
It is certainly easy to tell you if food comes from a certain
region. In many cases I have used such words as "New
Cuisine" (applying new techniques from the cooking
schools in Spain) or "Creative" to describe a
higher level of creativity in the recipes. There are also
regional classifications, as well as "Andalusian"
and "Typical Andalusian", with "Typical Andalusian"
something like going out for tapas in my mother-in-law's
kitchen (good, home-cooked, and little variation from the
typical dishes of this region). Two notes to keep me alive
if my mother-in-law should read this: 1) nowhere on earth,
including the best bars in Seville, will you find cooking
as good as in her house, and 2) little variation is a good
El Centro can mean a lot of things to people, but I refer
to it here as around the main shopping district, close to
calles Sierpes and Tetuan and Plaza del Duque. It borders
the Alfalfa, Santa Cruz, Arenal and Alameda neighborhoods.
Egaña Oriza |
: c/ San Fernando 41. : 954 227 254; 954 227 211. : restauranteoriza.com
: Basque / Creative
Adjacent to the Real Alcazar on the corner where the Jardines
Murillo meet the University of Seville, chef Jose Mari Egaña's
creations are perhaps the best in the city. Blending the
traditional techniques of Basque style cooking with the
best fresh, seasonal ingredients from Andalucia and nearby
regions, Egaña's perfect fusion is the result of four generations
of chefs in the family. When in season, wild game such as jabalí (boar) and venison are highly recommended.
A carefully selected wine list, perfect presentation and
excellent service are the least to expect. The two floors
of the restaurant feature high ceilings with views of the
Alcazar gardens through artistic stained glass windows.
c/ Placentines 2. : 954 213 162. : casa-robles.com
While there are three locations within 1 minute of each
other, I always prefer Robles Placentines to Casa Robles
and Robles Tapas. Perhaps it is the bodega type atmosphere,
or the fact that calle Placentines is just a little, and
a very little, off the beaten path. In Robles Placentines
you can enjoy tapas, but the best food is when you sit down
for a full meal. A traditional Andalusian menu with a few
twists, both pescado and carne are well
recommended. The jamón serrano is featured
on the menu with a description: "the best in the world",
and it just might be: almost sweet, practically dissolving
in your mouth. The dessert menu features a number of homemade
creations as well as coffees and liqueurs. We've always
experienced good service. The food, while excellent, is
a little expensive. But we've never had anything to complain
c/ Zaragoza (near Plaza Nueva). : 954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
The Casa Cuesta location in Triana has a history of over
100 years (founded in 1880). The location in the center
has a history of less than a year! Still, the folks at Casa
Cuesta have of course benefited from running a restaurant
and tapas bar for more than a century, and that experience
shows in the new location. Both the dining room and bar
are smaller than the location in Triana, and thus my recommendation
for making reservations ahead of time. For dining it would
be difficult to find a more pure Andalusian menu, from the
starters including jamón, croquetas and salmorejo, to the sampling of typical fish, meat
and guisos for the main dishes.
c/ Padre Tarin 6. : 954 380 590.
: Italian / Andalusian.
Down a back street behind Plaza de la Gavidia, perhaps the
one drawback to Zarabanda is it's location. While not too
difficult to find it is hidden from the main streets. With
limited seating of perhaps ten tables, it is always good
to arrive early. Everything from the family run kitchen
is casera (homemade), with our favorites being: solomillo al oporto (pork loin cooked in port wine), ensalada de pate y aguacate (salad with homemade
pate and avocado, served with slices of pita like bread),
and of course the tiramisu, which is absolutely,
without a doubt the best in Seville. We could of course
not forget the handmade pizzas, which always have fresh
ingredients. My only complaint may be the chairs, which
are a little small and not the most comfortable. But the
food certainly outweighs any discomfort.
Santa Marta |
San Andrés. :
My question is – does this place hold the world’s
record for the largest flamenquin? I think they
might, at least for one regularly served in a bar. What
is a flamenquin? It’s pork wrapped in ham
and filled with cheese that is deep fried. This one is at
least a foot long. Other recommended dishes include solomillo whisky, arroz (on Saturdays and Sundays),
and the frito variado. The plaza de San Andrés
is one of my favorite outdoor spots to sit and eat –
very large with plenty of people passing by, and a church
as the backdrop.
: c/ Alfonso XII 33. :
954 211 251
: Typical Andalusian
Near the Museum of Bellas Artes. They have a very large
menu and a good amount of indoor seating as well as an English
menu. Bartenders are nice fellows. If you like garlic order patatas a la brava - just about the best around.
And they always have arroz (rice) - every day. For an inexpensive, full meal during the day, the menu
del día is a good value.
- patatas a la brava (potatoes with garlic mayo
and hot sauce)
- arroz (rice)
- flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled
with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
- chipirón a la plancha (grilled squid)
- solomillo al whisky (pork in brandy or whisky
The Alfalfa is the area just above (on a map) Plaza Salvador
leading up to calle Aguilas and ending around Plaza Encarnación.
It borders the shopping district, Santa Cruz, Santa Catalina
and Puerta Carmona.
Bar Habanita |
c/ Golfo, 3. : 954 220 202
: Cuban / Vegetarian
This comes up in my vegetarian section for it’s selection
of veggie and vegan friendly dishes. But there’s also
meat! It also appears in my tapas bars section: I guess
you could say La Habanita wears many hats, and is recommended
for just about any kind of dining you may wish. Cuban favorites
like ropa vieja and a host of original drinks are
a good reason visit. La Habanita is located down an alley
in a small “plaza” away from the noise of the
Alfalfa. Several tables are outside, in plain view of a
very hungry dog who is often salivating over the tapas from
his first floor apartment. Inside you'll find a decent sized
dining room. A well-translated menu (color coded for English
and Spanish) and some experienced English speakers who work
the tables make this friendly for travelers. And I challenge
you to sit for lunch without seeing at least one group of
- alcachofas (artichokes served with balsamic
vinegar and olive oil)
- revuelto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms)
- solomillo con dátiles y bacon (pork
loin cooked with dates and bacon)
- croquetas de roquefort (roquefort croquettes)
- mojito (rum, brown sugar and more in what is
perhaps the city's best mojito)
y Angelo |
: c/ Luchana, 2. :
954 216 164
There are now two locations, one in the Alfalfa and another
near the Triana Bridge. This was my favorite pizza place,
but they have changed the inside and tried to become a little
more upscale. Unfortunately Let's Go "discovered"
them a few years ago, but it is still worth a trip. The
best thing is the pizza but they offer a full range of other
typical and not so typical Italian dishes. Prices range
from 6-8€ per plato. There is also outdoor
seating in front of the church which makes for a nice backdrop
during the evening.
- Pizza Roma
- Pizza 5 quesos
La Mia Tana |
: c/ Perez Galdos, 24. : 954 226 897
: Italian / Mexican
This is the best pizza place in Sevilla, as the line out
the door will tell you. My guess is many are enticed by
the smell which fills up the street every day and night,
making you crave something Italian. It's best to get here
early as the restaurant itself offers maybe 10 tables. Pizzas
are my favorite, but the calzones and salads are excellent,
as well as a variety of pasta dishes. Some vegetarian options
to choose from as well as a couple of Mexican dishes. If
you do make it late and manage to get a table slow down
and enjoy your meal. When you step outside la marcha,
or nightlife will be in high gear on almost any night with
15 or more bars to choose from.
Coloniales | -
: Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19. :
Inside and outside seating but if you want to eat outside
get there early and put your name on the chalk board outside.
Some days you may wait 30 minutes, but you can always eat
in the dining room in the back should you want to sit. Tapas
range from 1,75-3,50€ but they are HUGE, which
makes eating here very cheap. In some cases a tapa
is much like ordering a media racion, and a perfect
light meal for the evening. These folks may be the gods
of sauces - try solomillo in maybe seven different
ways. I have yet to eat anything here I don't like and have
often thought of giving up cooking at home. I likely would
if the wait weren't so long.
- solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and
- solomillo al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
- solomillo a la castellana (pork loin with garlic,
serrano ham and mushrooms)
- champiñones rebozados (fried mushrooms
stuffed with ham and chorizo)
- tostadas/pan de la casa (various)
- pollo con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond
- manjar blanco (chicken in sauce)
- calamares del campo (fried green pepper and
onion - not squid)
- prueba de chorizo (cooked chorizo)
Arenal is the neighborhood between the Cathedral and the
river, beginning at Avda. Constitución and ending
at the river and the bridges leading to Triana and Los Remedios.
It borders the Plaza de Armas/San Pablo neighborhood.
c/ Arfe 25. : 954 215 376. : restaurantelaisla.com
: Andalusian / Galician.
Perhaps one of the best places to try any kind of seafood,
on several occasions we have spotted the members of Real
Betis eating in La Isla. While this will cost you more than
your average restaurant in Seville the quality of the seafood
is the best in the city, brought in from the coast everyday.
Consisting of two dining rooms, plus a few tables for al
fresco dining on calle Arfe. Founded in 1946, the current
owners are from Galicia, but have been in Seville long enough
to be sevillianos as well. The dishes range from
over most of Spain, with a predominance of Galician and
Andalusian. And if you don't like seafood, there are always
a few dishes featuring beef from Galicia.
Alabardero | - (expensive unless you try the menu
c/ Zaragoza, 20. : 954 502 721. : tabernadelalabardero.com
: Spanish / Creative / New Cuisine.
I'll let you in on a little secret. Well it's likely not
much of a secret anymore, but you'll enjoy this place if
you're looking for a nice lunch at a reasonable price. Eat
downstairs at El Alabardero for a full three course meal
for 12 € and I guarantee you won't have a better meal
in Spain for that price. Note that the lunch menu, in the
downstairs portion only, is by far the best deal. This is
no bar food or tapas, although I don't have anything against
the two. El Alabardero is the school of hosteleria so you get some young waiters who are practicing their skills
but at a high level. The menu changes most every day and
you might consider the food as being from the new school
of Spanish cooking - they're not afraid to use some interesting
or exotic ingredients in preparing the dishes. The presentation
of the food is also something to be seen. It's upscale at
a very reasonable price. Note on some holidays and other
events the menu price may be higher. For a truly special
meal, which comes at a high price, try the upstairs dining
room where you can enjoy excellent wines (by the bottle
only) along with some of the best cuisine in Seville.
Enrique Becerra |
: c/ Gamazo 2. : 954 213 049. : enriquebecerra.com
Located in a 17th century house in the Arenal quarter, Enrique
Becerra serves traditional Andalusian cuisine with an emphasis
on fresh, seasonal ingredients. The downstairs dining area
is formal, yet relaxed, including a bar and dining area,
complete with columns from the roman city of Italica, just
a few kilometers outside of Seville (it should be noted
many older Sevillian houses have made use of columns and
marble from the city, before restoration and preservation
work ever began). Upstairs there are a number of private
rooms offering a more intimate and elegant dining experience
(reservations required, and this is an excellent "romantic"
dining experience should you try). As for specialties, it
is difficult to pin them down to just one area. Many generations
of family experience in the hostelry business translates
to perfection: meats range from veal, iberian pork, beef
and lamb roasted with honey, while fish dishes include swordfish, bacalao (cod) and fresh specials. With daily changes
to the menu, one must keep an eye out for some of the best
offerings. Add an excellent variety of homemade desserts
as well as one of the largest selections of wines, finos,
and olorosos in Sevilla, and it appears there is
no course Becerra can't handle with quality.
Restaurante Horacio |
: c/ Antonia Díaz 9. : 954 225 385. : restaurantehoracio.com
Located between the Cathedral and Plaza de Toros en the
Arenal quarter, Horacio serves mostly Andalusian dishes,
with a few variations. Both fish and meat is well prepared,
with a favorite of mine being the brocheta de rape con
marisco (monkfish and shellfish kebab). Other seafood
includes sole, and an excellent fish and seafood stew. Meats
range from lamb, pork and filet of beef. One large dining
room plus two private dining rooms for groups. A nice selection
of desserts, good service and a warm and comfortable atmosphere
(not too stuffy).
: c/ Dos de Mayo, 4. : 954 562 547
: Typical Spanish and Andalusian
Rounding the corner from calle Arfe we find Sabina, a restaurant
known for it's typical Spanish and Andalusian dishes. The
grilled vegetables and fried eggs with potatoes are just
two of the specialties. With plenty of seating, a relaxed
atmosphere and good service, Sabina is an excellent choice
for sampling some of the best platos that Spanish
cuisine has to offer.
Sierra Mayor |
: c/ Joachin Guichot 5. : 954 561 210
: Andalusian / Extremaduran
Perhaps can be classified as a tapas bar, but we always
end up sharing raciones with everyone when we eat.
A great place to go for a variety of famous jamón and cured meats. Ham, chorizo, caña
de lomo...you name it: if it's cured pig it's here.
The fuentes give you a chance to try a little bit
of everything although it can be a little expensive.
A large dining are and bar, as well as some outdoor seating
a block from Plaza Nueva.
- fuente de sierra mayor (a little of everything
in the cured meat department)
- fuente de queso (many cheeses)
- croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
- tostada o pan de la casa (various breads/toast
with choice of toppings)
La Moneda |
: c/ Almirantazgo 4. : 954 223 642
Not far from the cathedral and post office as you enter
the Arenal. Excellent seafood, the specialty. The service
tends to be pretty good.
de Extremadura |
c/ Fernandez y Gonzalez 14. : 954 225 606
Think of it as a bar/restaurant/cultural center, although
the front looks just like a bar. The back is a socios (members) area complete with a TV, tourist information for
Extremadura and a home like atmosphere. The front is a nice
place for a meal or the menu del día, which
we tried for a little under 7 Euros. Excellent food from
the region where we enjoyed cocido - a stew complete
with garbanzos, some vegetables, morcilla (blood
sausage), pork and tocino (fat!). A very good meal
for a reasonable price.
On the opposite side of the Cathedral as Arenal, the area
behind the Alcazar and Cathedral bordering Menéndez
Pelayo and the Jardines Murillo. It borders the Alfalfa
neighborhood and Puerta Carmona.
La Albahaca |
: Plaza de Santa Cruz, 12. : 954 254 177. : Restaurante
: Andalusian / Creative.
Consisting of 3 separate salons for dining inside a former casa-palacio, as well as a terrace for outdoor
dining in the Plaza de Santa Cruz, La Albahaca is known
as one of the more romantic restaurants in Seville. The
traditional blends with the creative on the menu, where
customers can choose from a variety of meat and seafood
dishes. A small, and carefully selected wine list often
changes depending on the restaurant specials. After dinner
one can walk a short 10 meters and enjoy a flamenco show
in Los Gallos.
Meson Don Raimundo |
: c/ Argote de Molina 26. : 954 223 355. : mesondonraimundo.com
: Andalusian / Mozarabe.
Located in a former convent, the atmosphere has a richly
historic feel. It should be mentioned the building served
as the first post office in Seville, a school and a bakery.
In the late 1960's it was renovated for it's purpose today.
Following the historic tradition of the house, the restaurant
offers dishes in typical Andalusian and Mozarabe style.
Mozarabe would be classified as those dishes with their
roots from the Arab occupation, which over time blended
with regional ingredients and specialties. This is especially
noticeable in the dessert menu. One of the specialties,
and excellent reasons to dine in Don Raimundo, is the offering
of seasonal small and big game, with a menu including venison
(venao) and wild boar (jabalí),
as well as rabbit and pheasant. Fresh seafood is also well
El Modesto |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 5. : 954 416 811. : Restaurante
One word for everything: delicious. Located near the Jardines
de Murillo with plenty of space at the bar and a lot
of outdoor seating. A more formal dining room is upstairs
in the original location, as well as the new location just
across the street. For what you get it's really not that
expensive. I think the coquinas, or little clams,
are likely the best in Sevilla. We also had gambas al
ajillo, shrimp cooked with olive oil, garlic and hot
peppers. Don't be afraid to make barquitos when
you order this - that is throw in little bits of bread to
soak up the sauce. A frito variado is always a
good choice, when you get 4-5 types of fish including calamares
del campo, which despite their name are not fish, rather
fried onions and green peppers. Finally solomillo al
whisky is excellent here, and it's my weakness when
we dine out.
- frito variado (sampler of fried fish)
- fritura el modesto (fried onions, green peppers
- solomillo whisky (pork loin cooked in brandy
- coquinas (little clams)
La Juderia |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 13. : 954 412 052; 954 426 456. : Restaurante
La Juderia takes it's name from location, as it is situated
at one of the entrances to the old jewish quarter. Owned
and operated by Grupo Modesto, which runs Restaurante El
Modesto and a few other establishments in the city. La Juderia
is a little more upscale, a dining experience complete with
table cloths and well dressed waiters. The downstairs dining
room is more comfortable and offers a more elegant atmosphere
than it's sister restaurant across the street. In keeping
with the tradition of El Modesto, La Juderia offers excellent
food although a little higher in price. Their specialties
include a variety of seafood, but I enjoyed one of the best
filet mignons I have ever tasted in Seville. While you could
eat tapas in La Juderia, the bar is much smaller than El
Modesto. For this reason I recommend it as a restaurant
to have the best experience.
del Agua |
Callejón del Agua, 6 : 954 220 714. : Corral
: Andalusian / Romantic.
If you are looking for a romantic setting and don’t
mind forking over a little money the Coral del Agua helps
set the mood. In the middle of Santa Cruz right next to
the old city wall, the restaurant is in an 18th century
building the most charming section of Sevilla. Dining options
include a candlelit table in a plant and flower filled patio.
Service is excellent and the food very good. Still, I like
this restaurant more for the ambience than for the cuisine.
San Marco |
: c/ Meson del Moro 6. : 954 564 390. : restaurantesanmarco.com
Great Italian food, and don't believe the other Seville
web sites or guide books which say 48€ for two. You
can skip that 20€ bottle of wine and eat plenty for
around 25-30€. Eat at the Meson del Moro location
for the best atmosphere - set in what was formerly a 12th
century Arab bath. There are several other locations, including
Calle Betis (Triana) and Calle Cuna (Centro). While they
offer pizza I'd recommend eating any of the other dishes
first. And the salad with roquefort, endive and fresh corn
is wonderful. There are several other locations, which all
have a unique atmosphere. Most are in renovated 18th or
19th century houses and include period decoration. I recently
strolled by the c/ Baños location and it has a nice
cozy feel. It's just off a side street from Plaza de la
Gavidia in the center. A little secret - if you want the
same menu but for a better price check out Restaurante Cereceto
on c/ Pérez Galdós. They are a San Marco franchise
which offers more or less the same food but in a more casual
Santa Catalina is the area around the Iglesia Santa Catalina,
bordering around Plaza Encarnación, the Alfalfa,
Puerta Carmona and Puerta Osario. To the back bordering
calle Feria, the Alameda and Macarena neighborhoods.
El Rincóncillo |
: c/ Gerona 40 / Plaza de los
954 223 183. : elrinconcillo1670.es
: Typical Andalusian.
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670 now has a restaurant.
The current owners are on their 8th generation dating back
to 1800 or so. You can never enter without seeing a tourist
but it has a great atmosphere, including a collection of
(still full) bottles of liquor some as old as 70 years.
A new dining room upstairs in the old employee quarters
has turned this into a quality, full blown restaurant. My
suggestion is to enjoy a drink in the bar downstairs before
or after dinner, as it would be a shame to miss out on the
experience. Once upstairs, the dining features the same
delicious jamón serrano and queso manchego that you will find downstairs. The menu features a variety
of dishes, including and excellent filet of beef, seasonal
fish such as lubina (sea bass) and dorada (golden fish), as well as a number of good cuts of Iberian
pork (solomillo o presa ibérica). Three small dining
rooms are available, with my favorite being the corner room
which overlooks the Santa Catalina church and Plaza de los
- jamón (ham)
- queso (cured manchego cheese)
- lubina (sea bass)
- solomillo o presa ibérica (high quality Iberian
c/ Almirante Apodaca 1. : 954 221 746
Ice cream only, but probably the best on earth. Take your
pick from maybe 30 - they are all good. 2,50€ for
a small and a little more for a medium cup. Exotic flavors
whose names I can't pronounce nor write, as well as some
good, simple favorites like chocolate, vanilla, and banana!
This place is famous and anyone who knows anything about
ice cream in Sevilla knows the name Rayas.
Puerta Carmona is the area around the intersection of calle
Luis Montoto, Avda. Menéndez y Pelayo and calle San
Esteban. It borders Santa Cruz, the Alfalfa and Santa Catalina.
Crossing the main avenue of Menéndez y Pelayo you
reach La Buhaira and Nervión neighborhoods.
: c/ Recaredo 9. : 954 412 057. : becerrita.com
: Andalusian / Innovative.
The Becerra family is well known in Seville, and Becerrita
is a good example of what the family has done well: one
generation handing over to the other without notice. Father,
Enrique, whose name graces the family restaurant in the
Arenal, leaves Becerrita in the hands of his son, Jesús
María Becerra. As with Restaurante Enrique Becerra,
seasonal/fresh market often appear as specials on the menu.
Although in my opinion the menu is at times a little more
creative and less straight Andalusian than in Becerra, as
noticeable with some of the main dishes. And in keeping
with the family tradition, a large and well selected wine
list is available. Dining rooms are very well decorated,
with two regional touches: The private dining rooms all
carry names of important families, streets or landmarks
around Puerta Carmona: Imperial, Medinaceli, Don Enrique,
Pilatos and Puerta de Carmona. Decoration and paintings
are from Sevillian artists and architects.
Further away on Avda. Menéndez Pelayo from Puerta
Carmona and Santa Cruz, Puerta Osario borders the Santa
Justa, Macarena and Santa Catalina neighborhoods.
del Tito |
c/ Escuelas Pias. :
: Typical Andalusian
If there were a Bar Manolo II I would give the honor to
this place. The menu is about the same, portions a little
smaller, but at a very good price. Plenty of outdoor seating
along the busy Calle Escuelas Pias. Generally a place for
tapas, but with raciones you can easily make a
meal without spending too much.
The Alameda neighborhood is named for the large open,
dirt plaza. It runs along calle Feria and the Macarena neighborhood
leading to the river and the Puente de la Barqueta.
c/ Peris Mencheta 21. : 954 908 188
: Andalusian / Innovative / Vegetarian
Just off of calle Feria towards the Alameda is a restaurant
Markus of sevilla5.com showed me a few years ago. If you
want to get a seat get there early so you can avoid the
wait, and this place is best for dinner. Original recipes
made from fresh ingredients make this a good choice. Large tapas make dinner the best value, but just about anything
served in La Madraza is of generous proportions. I wish
I could remember what I ate here, but I can't. For lunch
it is rarely open before 14:00, but fills up quick. Inside
the dining room can be a bit noisy, but some of the best
cooking in Seville awaits you.
"El Ambigú" |
c/ Feria 47. : 954 381 015
: Andalusian / Innovative
Located on Calle Feria they have a few outside tables but
offer more tables inside. Especially keep an eye on their
daily offerings listed on the chalkboard, which I've found
not only delicious but generous in size. At night the best
is to sample tapas, but during the day I can highly recommend
the menu del día which offers a drink, your choice
of dishes for 1st and 2nd plates (two courses) and then
dessert for around 6,50€. You come away very full.
I had an amazing piece of roast chicken (large and delicious)
and a great salad off the menu del día one day.
- pollo a la cerveza (when available)
- chorizo asturiano a la sidra (when available)
San Lorenzo is the area around the Plaza de San Lorenzo
(Gran Poder and San Lorenzo churches). Bordering Plaza de
Armas, the Alameda and the Torneo side of the river.
Plaza de San Lorenzo 1. : 954 906 475
: Andalusian / Creative
Receiving many excellent reviews, both in the press and
by a few regular exploreseville visitors, I have yet to
try this restaurant. Offering what appears to be a very
creative variety of dishes, I will soon have more information
on this restaurant after a visit.
Alcoy 10 |
c/ Alcoy 10. : 954 905 702
: Andalusian / Creative / International
Thanks to my parents for giving us this tip. Alcoy 10 is
located a few blocks from the San Lorenzo church on the
corner of calle Alcoy and Teodosio. Seating includes a small
area at the bar for tapas, plus a few tables on the terrace
and a small dining room with perhaps 5 tables (no tapas
in the dining room). The food is a mix of a few traditional
dishes plus some innovative recipes from a French chef.
Presentation and preparation of the food is excellent, often
with an emphasis on contrasts for may dishes, such as sweet
to cancel out the salty, or cold with hot. Our solomillo
al gorgonzola, was served on a bed of fresh fettuccini,
which was a nice change. The dining room, while a bit cramped,
is still quite nice, and service is good with the limited
number of tables.
- solomillo al gorgonzola (pork loin with gorgonzola
served over pasta)
- queso de cabra gratinado (baked goat cheese
- foie de pato sobre pan caliente (duck paté
served over toasted bread)
- solomillo al jerez (pork loin in a sweet sherry
/ Bar Eslava |
c/ Eslava, 3 - 5. : 954 906 568
: Andalusian / Creative
Just next to the San Lorenzo church (located across from
the church bell tower) you'll find one of Seville's most
popular tapas bars. There is also a small dining room next
door, thus the two numbers on the address above! Lunch can
be a good time to make a visit and is generally less crowded.
Try the menu del día for a very good value.
If possible, make dinner reservations ahead of time or arrive
The Macarena neighborhood borders the Alameda and Santa
Catalina leading to the Macarena church and the Andalusian
Parliament. Behind the Parliament building leading to the
Puente del Alamillo is considered the Macarena neighborhood
by many as well, although most of it was built in the 1950's
c/ San Hermenegildo 42 . : 954 417 926
: Andalusian / Creative / New Cuisine
For most visitors, a stroll down calle San Hermenegildo
would be just to visit El Crujiente, as there is little
else around. Here you can sample some of chef Jesús
González's most creative recipes, who has won several
awards for his blend of the traditional with new techniques
and ingredients. A small and intimate dining area is the
perfect setting to enjoy persnalized service and excellent
Yebra | -
c/ Medalla Milagrosa, 3. : 954 351 007
: Andalusian / Creative
Here is where it all began. Before El Rincón de la
Buhaira and Tapas Viapol this was, and still is, the place
to eat in the Macarena if not all of Sevilla. This is where
the revuelto de chorizo was invented, at least
in the present, delicious form as it is served in several
other offshoots of the bar (again, see Tapas Viapol and
El Rincón de la Buhaira). But don't forget the rest
of the menu: jalabí (boar) in a tasty fruit
sauce (was it raspberry?) or the carrillada, or
the flamenquin, or...the list goes on and on...
La Manchega |
c/ Diamante and Avda de Doctor Fedriani. :
: Typical Andalusian
Do you want to be the only foreigner in a chaotic neighborhood
bar far from the center where they don’t have table
service? YES! You do want to be! Rid yourself of your frightened guiri (foreigner/tourist) instincts and head out
past the Macarena and past the Hospital Virgen de la Macarena.
You're in what used to the sticks for Sevilla but what is
now plenty of 70’s style apartment buildings. On a
corner you will find La Manchega and a bit of happiness
in locating a wonderful, typical Andalusian menu. I so highly
recommend the solomillo a la plancha. Tender, roasted
over real wood coals which pop and crackle as the meat slowly
cooks. I have no idea how it comes out so tender. Then try
a media racion of patatas bravas, covered
with a large amount of garlic mayo and salsa brava (think spicy ketchup, but better). You’ll have to
listen for the bartenders as they scream out your dish,
not your name. Note that they take the day off on Saturday
- it's closed, but they open on Sunday.
- patatas bravas (potatoes with garlic, mayonnaise
and spicy red sauce)
- solomillo a la plancha (grilled pork loin)
Between the Plaza Magdalena in the shopping district leading
to Plaza de Armas bus station. Borders the river and Arenal.
El Berrocal |
c/ Moratin, 6. : 954 228 990
: Andalusian / New Cuisine / Creative
Down a back alley from the El Corte Inglés in the
Plaza Magdalena is this El Berrocal. There are really two
locations, a small bar just across the street from the other
offers less seating. Plenty of tapas served up in little cazuelas which are wonderful. You can also get
your fill of wild game with things like jabalí (wild boar) and ciervo (deer, or if you prefer
another name, venison). The caldereta de ciervo (deer stew) is one of my favorites, plus my friend Karen
had me quickly addicted to the bolitas de patata y queso,
a fried ball of mashed potato in a cheese sauce. Also take
time out to sample some of the fish dish, like the merluza (hake). The key to ordering in this place is looking at
the seasonal menu and picking what's fresh.
- croquetas (croquettes)
- bolitas de patata y queso (fried potato
croquettes in cheeses sauce)
- caldereta de ciervo (deer stew)
c/ Marques de Paradas, 28. : 954 220 404. : Restaurante
Just next door to Nu Yor, a nightclub with great mojitos, you'll find La Piletas, a restaurant famous for it's bullfighting
atmosphere as well as tapas and plates of traditional Andalusian
cuisine. Whether you're looking for a bull's head on the
wall or a collection of capes and posters, you won't have
to look far once you enter. The food is moderately priced
and we tried both the jamón and puntillitas (little fried squid) which were quite good, especially
with a cold Cruzcampo on a hot June night.
Across the Triana Bridge and the area to the right and
left, and heading back on calle San Jacinto. Many consider
most of calle Betis to be Triana. It borders Los Remedios.
de las Flores |
c/ Betis : 954 274 576. : kioscodelasflores.com
: Andalusian / Romantic
Formerly located just next to the Triana bridge (where El
Faro de Triana is located now), El Kiosco de las Flores
has gone upscale, with a much larger restaurant. Plenty
of glass to offer good views of the Plaza de Toros, Cathedral
and Torre del Oro across the river. An open air terraza
for dining al fresco on cooler nights is a nice
choice as well. The specialty has been, and always will
be, pescaito frito, carefully prepared fried seafood.
The prices are a bit high, the food a good deal better than
Rio Grande down the street, and the view perhaps the best
reason to come. Certainly a romantic spot.
c/ Castilla, 1. :
954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
Set on a street corner in Triana, just a few blocks from
the bridge, Casa Cuesta has a history of over 100 years
(founded in 1880). While a little newer, the shelves behind
the bar are a work of art and certainly an antique worth
looking over. A large informal are of tables in the front
bar area are complimented with a more formal dining room
in the back. For dining it would be difficult to find a
more pure Andalusian menu, from the starters including jamón,
croquetas and salmorejo, to the sampling of
typical fish, meat and guisos for the main dishes.
A new location on calle Zaragoza brings Casa Cuesta to the
center of the city. Still, I am partial to the original,
and more historic location in Triana.
Faro de Triana |
c/ San Jacinto (Plaza del Altozano). : 954 336 192
If only for the view it is worth trying at least a tapa
just across the river in Triana. With four levels to choose
from – both indoor and outdoor – you get a great
view of the river, the Triana bridge and the rest of the
center of Sevilla. The food is decent enough, although you
will pay less in other places for the same quality. Bring
your camera or just your sunglasses: remember you are here
to enjoy the view!
Sol y Sombra |
: c/ Castilla 151. : . : tabernasolysombra.com
: Typical Andalusian
Now occupying three storefronts, or locales, Sol
y Sombra's atmosphere is pure toros y feria, as
it's name would suggest. While you can eat a full meal in
any location by sharing raciones or media raciones, one
of the three locations holds a dining room complete with
table service. Nothing too fancy and nothing which
strays from a typical Andalusian menu. The Sol y Sombra
we visited has an historic atmosphere, noticeable as we
stepped down into a bar which wrapped around from the entrance
to the back. (One way to measure the age of a bar is if
you have to step down when you enter: the further the step,
the older the bar!). The building has been around since
the 1860's while the bar is a bit younger, dating back to
the 1960's. Specialties include solomillo al ajo (pork loin cooked with garlic), a variety of revueltos (omelets) as well as samplings of chacina.
La Oliva |
: c/ San Jacinto 73. :
954 333 031
: Typical Andalusian
If you are looking for a cheap, homemade meal, look no further.
Everything we tried (listed below) was great, and everything
else that came out of the kitchen made me even hungrier.
It may be a hike from the center, but well worth it. No
fancy presentation, just straight Andalusian specialties
served in tapa, media racion and racion.
Choose from two dining rooms, one in the front, and one
behind the kitchen, as well as a few tables outside or a
place at the bar. There is a lot of seating but it fills
up quickly in what is almost 100% locals. Again, this is
a place with a very typical Andalusian menu, and half of
it is fried!
- croquetas de jamón (ham croquettes)
- pavia de bacalao (salty loin of cod, fried)
- solomillo con bacon (pork loin, bacon and a
fried green pepper as a sandwich)
- cola de langosta (lobster tail, although fake,
with cocktail sauce)
- chipirones a la plancha (grilled squid)
- serranito (pork loin, ham, and fried green
pepper as a sandwich)
Crossing over Avda Menéndez y Pelayo from Puerta
Carmona. La Buhaira is the area between around the three
parallel streets: calle de Enramadilla, Eduardo Dato and
Luis Montoto, crossed with the Avda de la Buhaira. It borders
Viapol and the Porvenir and Nervión neighborhoods.
Nervión is past La Buhaira, bordering the Santa Justa
neighborhood (around the train station). Nervión
is mainly the area around the large mall and the Sevilla
Calle Luis de Morales, 2. :
954 579 400
Technically a hotel restaurant (Hotel Meliá Lebreros),
although with a separate entrance on the street, La Dehesa's
specialty is meat, charcoal grilled to perfection. A large
bar area provides ample space for tapas, with an even larger
dining room serving a complete meal. While wonderful cuts
of pork are available, my recommendations would be the chuletón
de buey (steak) or just about any of the cordero (lamb) on the menu. The salmorejo (think gazpacho but thicker and sweeter) is also excellent.
del Asador Sinai |
c/Sinai 19. :
954 576 350
A great place for a Sunday lunch, just make it here early
to get a table. Meat is certainly the specialty here, with
your choice of pork, beef or lamb. We ordered thin slices
of beef filet which we then cooked ourselves over a small
grill with fresh coals, brought to our table. Another one
of my favorites is the presa ibérica, nice cutlets
of high quality pork grilled and served, of course, with
potatoes. The parillada offers a selection of grilled
sausages, which is good to order with several people. The
desserts are homemade and well worth it if you still have
de la Buhaira |
: c/ José de la Cámara
954 534 740
Andalusian / Innovative
Another place to get to early rather than later, especially
on a weekend night. El Rincón de la Buhaira is located
in La Buhaira of course, a neighborhood on your way out
to Nervión, on a parallel street to Luis Montoto.
We had a meal so wonderful we left feeling drunk from all
of the food, or was that the complimentary shot of liqueur
we had on our way out? This bar was founded by a former
waiter of Bar El Yebra, a famous place among locals for
tapas. The dining room adjacent to the bar is small, so
a reservation for dinner or lunch may be wise. Try the revuelto
con chorizo famous here and at El Yebra.
Cerveceria La Reina |
: Avda. de la Buhaira 8. :
954 415 836
We've enjoyed a few visits recently with family and found
this a good place for lunch. A wide variety of seafood,
plus several daily specials. Best of all the service has
been very good. We have always sat outside where there are
a number of tables. Afterwards you can stroll in the Jardines
de la Buhaira, the gardens just a minute away. While raciones and media raciones are the typical order,
I still list this as a good restaurant experience, where
you can sit down and eat a full meal.
Taberna Tabalá |
: c/ Juan de la Sierra. :
954 530 703 : tabernastabala.com
Just around the corner from El Rincón de la Buhaira
we recently discovered this "tavern". We were
pleasantly surprised with a long list of chacina, or
cured meats. Plus plenty of other meat-based treats and
tapas hailing from the region around Aracena. This area
in the hills close to Portugal is famous for jamón among other things. We especially enjoyed the presa
mechada, which is a spice or two away from corned-beef,
even if it's made from pork. Served with manteca blanca,
a white butter-like substance made from 100% pork fat, this
could be the last dish you ever eat if you have a cholesterol
problem. As in they may be rushing you off to the hospital
afterwards! The homemade croquetas were also excellent.
If you crave a good selection of cured meats, this is a
great place to go.
- presa mechada con manteca blanca (cooked pork
with a side of 100% lard!)
- croquetas caseras (homemade croquettes)