Restaurants in Seville

Sometimes tapas just don't fill you up, and the thought of going from bar to bar and eating while on your feet doesn't have the same appeal. And as a visiting friend simply put it one night: "I'm sick of all these little bits of food. I want to sit down and eat a real plate of something." Maybe not the easiest person to take tapeando, but you get the point. When you are looking for a place to sit down and enjoy a full meal, Seville will not disappoint. As with my tapas section, some of the listings overlap. Again, as this is the restaurant section, I will try and cover the details of sitting down to a meal in these establishments. While I have tried to offer a wide range of prices, many of these restaurants lean towards the more expensive side, keeping in mind that tapas bars offer a cheap dinner by ordering media raciones y raciones. If you don't have the budget to eat at some places, many also have a bar section where you can sample the food at a more economical price. For the most part, this section covers Spanish restaurants. If you are looking for something different, check out the vegetarian and international section.

I am slowly putting the finishing touches on my menu reader, one which is more specific to Seville, but will also help you when dining out in many parts of Spain. Once finished, I will place a link in this section. For now you can refer to the food dictionary in either English to Spanish, or Spanish to English.

The purpose of this intro is to describe how this section is organized, what the little symbols mean and a little note on how to read the addresses. The listings are broken down by neighborhood, and at the top of each section I offer a small description of the location. Listings go from more expensive to cheap. You will see the following symbols used:

: Price, from 4 (expensive) to 1 (cheap), this is to offer an idea of the price range.
: Address of the establishment. Important note: "c/" means "Calle", as in "Street".
: Telephone, if available. Many do not have listings in phone books nor offer business cards.
: Web page, if available.
: Type of food. This is a tough one, and I have used my own system of classifying. It is certainly easy to tell you if food comes from a certain region. In many cases I have used such words as "New Cuisine" (applying new techniques from the cooking schools in Spain) or "Creative" to describe a higher level of creativity in the recipes. There are also regional classifications, as well as "Andalusian" and "Typical Andalusian", with "Typical Andalusian" something like going out for tapas in my mother-in-law's kitchen (good, home-cooked, and little variation from the typical dishes of this region). Two notes to keep me alive if my mother-in-law should read this: 1) nowhere on earth, including the best bars in Seville, will you find cooking as good as in her house, and 2) little variation is a good thing.

El Centro can mean a lot of things to people, but I refer to it here as around the main shopping district, close to calles Sierpes and Tetuan and Plaza del Duque. It borders the Alfalfa, Santa Cruz, Arenal and Alameda neighborhoods.

Egaña Oriza |
: c/ San Fernando 41. : 954 227 254; 954 227 211. : restauranteoriza.com
: Basque / Creative
Adjacent to the Real Alcazar on the corner where the Jardines Murillo meet the University of Seville, chef Jose Mari Egaña's creations are perhaps the best in the city. Blending the traditional techniques of Basque style cooking with the best fresh, seasonal ingredients from Andalucia and nearby regions, Egaña's perfect fusion is the result of four generations of chefs in the family. When in season, wild game such as jabalí (boar) and venison are highly recommended. A carefully selected wine list, perfect presentation and excellent service are the least to expect. The two floors of the restaurant feature high ceilings with views of the Alcazar gardens through artistic stained glass windows.

Robles Placentines |
: c/ Placentines 2. : 954 213 162. : casa-robles.com
: Andalusian.
While there are three locations within 1 minute of each other, I always prefer Robles Placentines to Casa Robles and Robles Tapas. Perhaps it is the bodega type atmosphere, or the fact that calle Placentines is just a little, and a very little, off the beaten path. In Robles Placentines you can enjoy tapas, but the best food is when you sit down for a full meal. A traditional Andalusian menu with a few twists, both pescado and carne are well recommended. The jamón serrano is featured on the menu with a description: "the best in the world", and it just might be: almost sweet, practically dissolving in your mouth. The dessert menu features a number of homemade creations as well as coffees and liqueurs. We've always experienced good service. The food, while excellent, is a little expensive. But we've never had anything to complain about.

Casa Cuesta |
: c/ Zaragoza (near Plaza Nueva). : 954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
: Andalusian.
The Casa Cuesta location in Triana has a history of over 100 years (founded in 1880). The location in the center has a history of less than a year! Still, the folks at Casa Cuesta have of course benefited from running a restaurant and tapas bar for more than a century, and that experience shows in the new location. Both the dining room and bar are smaller than the location in Triana, and thus my recommendation for making reservations ahead of time. For dining it would be difficult to find a more pure Andalusian menu, from the starters including jamón, croquetas and salmorejo, to the sampling of typical fish, meat and guisos for the main dishes.

Zarabanda |
: c/ Padre Tarin 6. : 954 380 590.
: Italian / Andalusian.
Down a back street behind Plaza de la Gavidia, perhaps the one drawback to Zarabanda is it's location. While not too difficult to find it is hidden from the main streets. With limited seating of perhaps ten tables, it is always good to arrive early. Everything from the family run kitchen is casera (homemade), with our favorites being: solomillo al oporto (pork loin cooked in port wine), ensalada de pate y aguacate (salad with homemade pate and avocado, served with slices of pita like bread), and of course the tiramisu, which is absolutely, without a doubt the best in Seville. We could of course not forget the handmade pizzas, which always have fresh ingredients. My only complaint may be the chairs, which are a little small and not the most comfortable. But the food certainly outweighs any discomfort.

Bar Santa Marta |
: Plaza San Andrés. :
: Typical Andalusian
My question is – does this place hold the world’s record for the largest flamenquin? I think they might, at least for one regularly served in a bar. What is a flamenquin? It’s pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese that is deep fried. This one is at least a foot long. Other recommended dishes include solomillo whisky, arroz (on Saturdays and Sundays), and the frito variado. The plaza de San Andrés is one of my favorite outdoor spots to sit and eat – very large with plenty of people passing by, and a church as the backdrop.

Bodegon Alfonso XII |
: c/ Alfonso XII 33. : 954 211 251
: Typical Andalusian
Near the Museum of Bellas Artes. They have a very large menu and a good amount of indoor seating as well as an English menu. Bartenders are nice fellows. If you like garlic order patatas a la brava - just about the best around. And they always have arroz (rice) - every day. For an inexpensive, full meal during the day, the menu del día is a good value.

• patatas a la brava (potatoes with garlic mayo and hot sauce)
• arroz (rice)
• flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
• chipirón a la plancha (grilled squid)
• solomillo al whisky (pork in brandy or whisky and garlic)

The Alfalfa is the area just above (on a map) Plaza Salvador leading up to calle Aguilas and ending around Plaza Encarnación. It borders the shopping district, Santa Cruz, Santa Catalina and Puerta Carmona.

Café Bar Habanita |
: c/ Golfo, 3. : 954 220 202
: Cuban / Vegetarian / International
This comes up in my vegetarian section for it’s selection of veggie and vegan friendly dishes. But there’s also meat! It also appears in my tapas bars section: I guess you could say La Habanita wears many hats, and is recommended for just about any kind of dining you may wish. Cuban favorites like ropa vieja and a host of original drinks are a good reason visit. La Habanita is located down an alley in a small “plaza” away from the noise of the Alfalfa. Several tables are outside, in plain view of a very hungry dog who is often salivating over the tapas from his first floor apartment. Inside you'll find a decent sized dining room. A well-translated menu (color coded for English and Spanish) and some experienced English speakers who work the tables make this friendly for travelers. And I challenge you to sit for lunch without seeing at least one group of tourists.

• alcachofas (artichokes served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil)
• revuelto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms)
• solomillo con dátiles y bacon (pork loin cooked with dates and bacon)
• croquetas de roquefort (roquefort croquettes)
• mojito (rum, brown sugar and more in what is perhaps the city's best mojito)

Pizzeros Orsini y Angelo |
: c/ Luchana, 2. : 954 216 164
: Italian
There are now two locations, one in the Alfalfa and another near the Triana Bridge. This was my favorite pizza place, but they have changed the inside and tried to become a little more upscale. Unfortunately Let's Go "discovered" them a few years ago, but it is still worth a trip. The best thing is the pizza but they offer a full range of other typical and not so typical Italian dishes. Prices range from 6-8€ per plato. There is also outdoor seating in front of the church which makes for a nice backdrop during the evening.

• Pizza Roma
• Pizza 5 quesos
• Moussaka

La Mia Tana |
: c/ Perez Galdos, 24. : 954 226 897
: Italian / Mexican
This is the best pizza place in Sevilla, as the line out the door will tell you. My guess is many are enticed by the smell which fills up the street every day and night, making you crave something Italian. It's best to get here early as the restaurant itself offers maybe 10 tables. Pizzas are my favorite, but the calzones and salads are excellent, as well as a variety of pasta dishes. Some vegetarian options to choose from as well as a couple of Mexican dishes. If you do make it late and manage to get a table slow down and enjoy your meal. When you step outside la marcha, or nightlife will be in high gear on almost any night with 15 or more bars to choose from.

Coloniales | -
: Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19. :
: Andalusian
Inside and outside seating but if you want to eat outside get there early and put your name on the chalk board outside. Some days you may wait 30 minutes, but you can always eat in the dining room in the back should you want to sit. Tapas range from 1,75-3,50€ but they are HUGE, which makes eating here very cheap. In some cases a tapa is much like ordering a media racion, and a perfect light meal for the evening. These folks may be the gods of sauces - try solomillo in maybe seven different ways. I have yet to eat anything here I don't like and have often thought of giving up cooking at home. I likely would if the wait weren't so long.

• solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
• solomillo al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
• solomillo a la castellana (pork loin with garlic, serrano ham and mushrooms)
• champiñones rebozados (fried mushrooms stuffed with ham and chorizo)
• tostadas/pan de la casa (various)
• pollo con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond sauce)
• manjar blanco (chicken in sauce)
• calamares del campo (fried green pepper and onion - not squid)
• prueba de chorizo (cooked chorizo)

Arenal is the neighborhood between the Cathedral and the river, beginning at Avda. Constitución and ending at the river and the bridges leading to Triana and Los Remedios. It borders the Plaza de Armas/San Pablo neighborhood.

La Isla |
: c/ Arfe 25. : 954 215 376. : restaurantelaisla.com
: Andalusian / Galician.
Perhaps one of the best places to try any kind of seafood, on several occasions we have spotted the members of Real Betis eating in La Isla. While this will cost you more than your average restaurant in Seville the quality of the seafood is the best in the city, brought in from the coast everyday. Consisting of two dining rooms, plus a few tables for al fresco dining on calle Arfe. Founded in 1946, the current owners are from Galicia, but have been in Seville long enough to be sevillianos as well. The dishes range from over most of Spain, with a predominance of Galician and Andalusian. And if you don't like seafood, there are always a few dishes featuring beef from Galicia.

Taberna Alabardero | - (expensive unless you try the menu at lunch)
: c/ Zaragoza, 20. : 954 502 721. : tabernadelalabardero.com
: Spanish / Creative / New Cuisine.
I'll let you in on a little secret. Well it's likely not much of a secret anymore, but you'll enjoy this place if you're looking for a nice lunch at a reasonable price. Eat downstairs at El Alabardero for a full three course meal for 12 € and I guarantee you won't have a better meal in Spain for that price. Note that the lunch menu, in the downstairs portion only, is by far the best deal. This is no bar food or tapas, although I don't have anything against the two. El Alabardero is the school of hosteleria so you get some young waiters who are practicing their skills but at a high level. The menu changes most every day and you might consider the food as being from the new school of Spanish cooking - they're not afraid to use some interesting or exotic ingredients in preparing the dishes. The presentation of the food is also something to be seen. It's upscale at a very reasonable price. Note on some holidays and other events the menu price may be higher. For a truly special meal, which comes at a high price, try the upstairs dining room where you can enjoy excellent wines (by the bottle only) along with some of the best cuisine in Seville.

Enrique Becerra |
: c/ Gamazo 2. : 954 213 049. : enriquebecerra.com
: Andalusian
Located in a 17th century house in the Arenal quarter, Enrique Becerra serves traditional Andalusian cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients. The downstairs dining area is formal, yet relaxed, including a bar and dining area, complete with columns from the roman city of Italica, just a few kilometers outside of Seville (it should be noted many older Sevillian houses have made use of columns and marble from the city, before restoration and preservation work ever began). Upstairs there are a number of private rooms offering a more intimate and elegant dining experience (reservations required, and this is an excellent "romantic" dining experience should you try). As for specialties, it is difficult to pin them down to just one area. Many generations of family experience in the hostelry business translates to perfection: meats range from veal, iberian pork, beef and lamb roasted with honey, while fish dishes include swordfish, bacalao (cod) and fresh specials. With daily changes to the menu, one must keep an eye out for some of the best offerings. Add an excellent variety of homemade desserts as well as one of the largest selections of wines, finos, and olorosos in Sevilla, and it appears there is no course Becerra can't handle with quality.

Restaurante Horacio |
: c/ Antonia Díaz 9. : 954 225 385. : restaurantehoracio.com
: Andalusian
Located between the Cathedral and Plaza de Toros en the Arenal quarter, Horacio serves mostly Andalusian dishes, with a few variations. Both fish and meat is well prepared, with a favorite of mine being the brocheta de rape con marisco (monkfish and shellfish kebab). Other seafood includes sole, and an excellent fish and seafood stew. Meats range from lamb, pork and filet of beef. One large dining room plus two private dining rooms for groups. A nice selection of desserts, good service and a warm and comfortable atmosphere (not too stuffy).

Sabina |
: c/ Dos de Mayo, 4. : 954 562 547
: Typical Spanish and Andalusian
Rounding the corner from calle Arfe we find Sabina, a restaurant known for it's typical Spanish and Andalusian dishes. The grilled vegetables and fried eggs with potatoes are just two of the specialties. With plenty of seating, a relaxed atmosphere and good service, Sabina is an excellent choice for sampling some of the best platos that Spanish cuisine has to offer.

Sierra Mayor |
: c/ Joachin Guichot 5. : 954 561 210
: Andalusian / Extremaduran
Perhaps can be classified as a tapas bar, but we always end up sharing raciones with everyone when we eat. A great place to go for a variety of famous jamón and cured meats. Ham, chorizo, caña de lomo...you name it: if it's cured pig it's here. The fuentes give you a chance to try a little bit of everything although it can be a little expensive. A large dining are and bar, as well as some outdoor seating a block from Plaza Nueva.

• fuente de sierra mayor (a little of everything in the cured meat department)
• fuente de queso (many cheeses)
• croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
• tostada o pan de la casa (various breads/toast with choice of toppings)

La Moneda |
: c/ Almirantazgo 4. : 954 223 642
: Andalusian
Not far from the cathedral and post office as you enter the Arenal. Excellent seafood, the specialty. The service tends to be pretty good.

Casa de Extremadura |
: c/ Fernandez y Gonzalez 14. : 954 225 606
: Extremaduran
Think of it as a bar/restaurant/cultural center, although the front looks just like a bar. The back is a socios (members) area complete with a TV, tourist information for Extremadura and a home like atmosphere. The front is a nice place for a meal or the menu del día, which we tried for a little under 7 Euros. Excellent food from the region where we enjoyed cocido - a stew complete with garbanzos, some vegetables, morcilla (blood sausage), pork and tocino (fat!). A very good meal for a reasonable price.

On the opposite side of the Cathedral as Arenal, the area behind the Alcazar and Cathedral bordering Menéndez Pelayo and the Jardines Murillo. It borders the Alfalfa neighborhood and Puerta Carmona.

La Albahaca |
: Plaza de Santa Cruz, 12. : 954 254 177. : Restaurante La Albahaca
: Andalusian / Creative.
Consisting of 3 separate salons for dining inside a former casa-palacio, as well as a terrace for outdoor dining in the Plaza de Santa Cruz, La Albahaca is known as one of the more romantic restaurants in Seville. The traditional blends with the creative on the menu, where customers can choose from a variety of meat and seafood dishes. A small, and carefully selected wine list often changes depending on the restaurant specials. After dinner one can walk a short 10 meters and enjoy a flamenco show in Los Gallos.

Meson Don Raimundo |
: c/ Argote de Molina 26. : 954 223 355. : mesondonraimundo.com
: Andalusian / Mozarabe.
Located in a former convent, the atmosphere has a richly historic feel. It should be mentioned the building served as the first post office in Seville, a school and a bakery. In the late 1960's it was renovated for it's purpose today. Following the historic tradition of the house, the restaurant offers dishes in typical Andalusian and Mozarabe style. Mozarabe would be classified as those dishes with their roots from the Arab occupation, which over time blended with regional ingredients and specialties. This is especially noticeable in the dessert menu. One of the specialties, and excellent reasons to dine in Don Raimundo, is the offering of seasonal small and big game, with a menu including venison (venao) and wild boar (jabalí), as well as rabbit and pheasant. Fresh seafood is also well prepared.

El Modesto |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 5. : 954 416 811. : Restaurante El Modesto
: Andalusian.
One word for everything: delicious. Located near the Jardines de Murillo with plenty of space at the bar and a lot of outdoor seating. A more formal dining room is upstairs in the original location, as well as the new location just across the street. For what you get it's really not that expensive. I think the coquinas, or little clams, are likely the best in Sevilla. We also had gambas al ajillo, shrimp cooked with olive oil, garlic and hot peppers. Don't be afraid to make barquitos when you order this - that is throw in little bits of bread to soak up the sauce. A frito variado is always a good choice, when you get 4-5 types of fish including calamares del campo, which despite their name are not fish, rather fried onions and green peppers. Finally solomillo al whisky is excellent here, and it's my weakness when we dine out.

• frito variado (sampler of fried fish)
• fritura el modesto (fried onions, green peppers and shrimp)
• solomillo whisky (pork loin cooked in brandy or whisky)
• coquinas (little clams)
  

La Juderia |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 13. : 954 412 052; 954 426 456. : Restaurante La Juderia
: Andalusian.
La Juderia takes it's name from location, as it is situated at one of the entrances to the old jewish quarter. Owned and operated by Grupo Modesto, which runs Restaurante El Modesto and a few other establishments in the city. La Juderia is a little more upscale, a dining experience complete with table cloths and well dressed waiters. The downstairs dining room is more comfortable and offers a more elegant atmosphere than it's sister restaurant across the street. In keeping with the tradition of El Modesto, La Juderia offers excellent food although a little higher in price. Their specialties include a variety of seafood, but I enjoyed one of the best filet mignons I have ever tasted in Seville. While you could eat tapas in La Juderia, the bar is much smaller than El Modesto. For this reason I recommend it as a restaurant to have the best experience.

Corral del Agua |
: Callejón del Agua, 6 : 954 220 714. : Corral del Agua
: Andalusian / Romantic.
If you are looking for a romantic setting and don’t mind forking over a little money the Coral del Agua helps set the mood. In the middle of Santa Cruz right next to the old city wall, the restaurant is in an 18th century building the most charming section of Sevilla. Dining options include a candlelit table in a plant and flower filled patio. Service is excellent and the food very good. Still, I like this restaurant more for the ambience than for the cuisine.

San Marco |
: c/ Meson del Moro 6. : 954 564 390. : restaurantesanmarco.com
: Italian.
Great Italian food, and don't believe the other Seville web sites or guide books which say 48€ for two. You can skip that 20€ bottle of wine and eat plenty for around 25-30€. Eat at the Meson del Moro location for the best atmosphere - set in what was formerly a 12th century Arab bath. There are several other locations, including Calle Betis (Triana) and Calle Cuna (Centro). While they offer pizza I'd recommend eating any of the other dishes first. And the salad with roquefort, endive and fresh corn is wonderful. There are several other locations, which all have a unique atmosphere. Most are in renovated 18th or 19th century houses and include period decoration. I recently strolled by the c/ Baños location and it has a nice cozy feel. It's just off a side street from Plaza de la Gavidia in the center. A little secret - if you want the same menu but for a better price check out Restaurante Cereceto on c/ Pérez Galdós. They are a San Marco franchise which offers more or less the same food but in a more casual atmosphere.

Santa Catalina is the area around the Iglesia Santa Catalina, bordering around Plaza Encarnación, the Alfalfa, Puerta Carmona and Puerta Osario. To the back bordering calle Feria, the Alameda and Macarena neighborhoods.

El Rincóncillo |
: c/ Gerona 40 / Plaza de los Terceros. : 954 223 183. : elrinconcillo1670.es
: Typical Andalusian.
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670 now has a restaurant. The current owners are on their 8th generation dating back to 1800 or so. You can never enter without seeing a tourist but it has a great atmosphere, including a collection of (still full) bottles of liquor some as old as 70 years. A new dining room upstairs in the old employee quarters has turned this into a quality, full blown restaurant. My suggestion is to enjoy a drink in the bar downstairs before or after dinner, as it would be a shame to miss out on the experience. Once upstairs, the dining features the same delicious jamón serrano and queso manchego that you will find downstairs. The menu features a variety of dishes, including and excellent filet of beef, seasonal fish such as lubina (sea bass) and dorada (golden fish), as well as a number of good cuts of Iberian pork (solomillo o presa ibérica). Three small dining rooms are available, with my favorite being the corner room which overlooks the Santa Catalina church and Plaza de los Terceros.

• jamón (ham)
• queso (cured manchego cheese)
• lubina (sea bass)
• solomillo o presa ibérica (high quality Iberian pork)

Rayas |
: c/ Almirante Apodaca 1. : 954 221 746
: Dessert
Ice cream only, but probably the best on earth. Take your pick from maybe 30 - they are all good. 2,50€ for a small and a little more for a medium cup. Exotic flavors whose names I can't pronounce nor write, as well as some good, simple favorites like chocolate, vanilla, and banana! This place is famous and anyone who knows anything about ice cream in Sevilla knows the name Rayas.

Puerta Carmona is the area around the intersection of calle Luis Montoto, Avda. Menéndez y Pelayo and calle San Esteban. It borders Santa Cruz, the Alfalfa and Santa Catalina. Crossing the main avenue of Menéndez y Pelayo you reach La Buhaira and Nervión neighborhoods.

Becerrita |
: c/ Recaredo 9. : 954 412 057. : becerrita.com
: Andalusian / Innovative.
The Becerra family is well known in Seville, and Becerrita is a good example of what the family has done well: one generation handing over to the other without notice. Father, Enrique, whose name graces the family restaurant in the Arenal, leaves Becerrita in the hands of his son, Jesús María Becerra. As with Restaurante Enrique Becerra, seasonal/fresh market often appear as specials on the menu. Although in my opinion the menu is at times a little more creative and less straight Andalusian than in Becerra, as noticeable with some of the main dishes. And in keeping with the family tradition, a large and well selected wine list is available. Dining rooms are very well decorated, with two regional touches: The private dining rooms all carry names of important families, streets or landmarks around Puerta Carmona: Imperial, Medinaceli, Don Enrique, Pilatos and Puerta de Carmona. Decoration and paintings are from Sevillian artists and architects.

Further away on Avda. Menéndez Pelayo from Puerta Carmona and Santa Cruz, Puerta Osario borders the Santa Justa, Macarena and Santa Catalina neighborhoods.

Rincón del Tito |
: c/ Escuelas Pias. :
: Typical Andalusian
If there were a Bar Manolo II I would give the honor to this place. The menu is about the same, portions a little smaller, but at a very good price. Plenty of outdoor seating along the busy Calle Escuelas Pias. Generally a place for tapas, but with raciones you can easily make a meal without spending too much.

The Alameda neighborhood is named for the large open, dirt plaza. It runs along calle Feria and the Macarena neighborhood leading to the river and the Puente de la Barqueta.

La Madraza |
: c/ Peris Mencheta 21. : 954 908 188
: Andalusian / Innovative / Vegetarian
Just off of calle Feria towards the Alameda is a restaurant Markus of sevilla5.com showed me a few years ago. If you want to get a seat get there early so you can avoid the wait, and this place is best for dinner. Original recipes made from fresh ingredients make this a good choice. Large tapas make dinner the best value, but just about anything served in La Madraza is of generous proportions. I wish I could remember what I ate here, but I can't. For lunch it is rarely open before 14:00, but fills up quick. Inside the dining room can be a bit noisy, but some of the best cooking in Seville awaits you.

Café-Bar "El Ambigú" |
: c/ Feria 47. : 954 381 015
: Andalusian / Innovative
Located on Calle Feria they have a few outside tables but offer more tables inside. Especially keep an eye on their daily offerings listed on the chalkboard, which I've found not only delicious but generous in size. At night the best is to sample tapas, but during the day I can highly recommend the menu del día which offers a drink, your choice of dishes for 1st and 2nd plates (two courses) and then dessert for around 6,50€. You come away very full. I had an amazing piece of roast chicken (large and delicious) and a great salad off the menu del día one day.

• pollo a la cerveza (when available)
• chorizo asturiano a la sidra (when available)
• merluza

San Lorenzo is the area around the Plaza de San Lorenzo (Gran Poder and San Lorenzo churches). Bordering Plaza de Armas, the Alameda and the Torneo side of the river.

Az-Zait |
: Plaza de San Lorenzo 1. : 954 906 475
: Andalusian / Creative
Receiving many excellent reviews, both in the press and by a few regular exploreseville visitors, I have yet to try this restaurant. Offering what appears to be a very creative variety of dishes, I will soon have more information on this restaurant after a visit.

Bar Alcoy 10 |
: c/ Alcoy 10. : 954 905 702
: Andalusian / Creative / International
Thanks to my parents for giving us this tip. Alcoy 10 is located a few blocks from the San Lorenzo church on the corner of calle Alcoy and Teodosio. Seating includes a small area at the bar for tapas, plus a few tables on the terrace and a small dining room with perhaps 5 tables (no tapas in the dining room). The food is a mix of a few traditional dishes plus some innovative recipes from a French chef. Presentation and preparation of the food is excellent, often with an emphasis on contrasts for may dishes, such as sweet to cancel out the salty, or cold with hot. Our solomillo al gorgonzola, was served on a bed of fresh fettuccini, which was a nice change. The dining room, while a bit cramped, is still quite nice, and service is good with the limited number of tables.

• solomillo al gorgonzola (pork loin with gorgonzola served over pasta)
• queso de cabra gratinado (baked goat cheese on bread)
• foie de pato sobre pan caliente (duck paté served over toasted bread)
• solomillo al jerez (pork loin in a sweet sherry sauce)

Restaurante / Bar Eslava |
: c/ Eslava, 3 - 5. : 954 906 568
: Andalusian / Creative
Just next to the San Lorenzo church (located across from the church bell tower) you'll find one of Seville's most popular tapas bars. There is also a small dining room next door, thus the two numbers on the address above! Lunch can be a good time to make a visit and is generally less crowded. Try the menu del día for a very good value. If possible, make dinner reservations ahead of time or arrive fairly early.

The Macarena neighborhood borders the Alameda and Santa Catalina leading to the Macarena church and the Andalusian Parliament. Behind the Parliament building leading to the Puente del Alamillo is considered the Macarena neighborhood by many as well, although most of it was built in the 1950's or later.

El Crujiente |
: c/ San Hermenegildo 42 . : 954 417 926
: Andalusian / Creative / New Cuisine
For most visitors, a stroll down calle San Hermenegildo would be just to visit El Crujiente, as there is little else around. Here you can sample some of chef Jesús González's most creative recipes, who has won several awards for his blend of the traditional with new techniques and ingredients. A small and intimate dining area is the perfect setting to enjoy persnalized service and excellent food.

Bar Yebra | -
: c/ Medalla Milagrosa, 3. : 954 351 007
: Andalusian / Creative
Here is where it all began. Before El Rincón de la Buhaira and Tapas Viapol this was, and still is, the place to eat in the Macarena if not all of Sevilla. This is where the revuelto de chorizo was invented, at least in the present, delicious form as it is served in several other offshoots of the bar (again, see Tapas Viapol and El Rincón de la Buhaira). But don't forget the rest of the menu: jalabí (boar) in a tasty fruit sauce (was it raspberry?) or the carrillada, or the flamenquin, or...the list goes on and on...

Bar La Manchega |
: c/ Diamante and Avda de Doctor Fedriani. :
: Typical Andalusian
Do you want to be the only foreigner in a chaotic neighborhood bar far from the center where they don’t have table service? YES! You do want to be! Rid yourself of your frightened guiri (foreigner/tourist) instincts and head out past the Macarena and past the Hospital Virgen de la Macarena. You're in what used to the sticks for Sevilla but what is now plenty of 70’s style apartment buildings. On a corner you will find La Manchega and a bit of happiness in locating a wonderful, typical Andalusian menu. I so highly recommend the solomillo a la plancha. Tender, roasted over real wood coals which pop and crackle as the meat slowly cooks. I have no idea how it comes out so tender. Then try a media racion of patatas bravas, covered with a large amount of garlic mayo and salsa brava (think spicy ketchup, but better). You’ll have to listen for the bartenders as they scream out your dish, not your name. Note that they take the day off on Saturday - it's closed, but they open on Sunday.

• patatas bravas (potatoes with garlic, mayonnaise and spicy red sauce)
• solomillo a la plancha (grilled pork loin)

Between the Plaza Magdalena in the shopping district leading to Plaza de Armas bus station. Borders the river and Arenal.

Taberna El Berrocal |
: c/ Moratin, 6. : 954 228 990
: Andalusian / New Cuisine / Creative
Down a back alley from the El Corte Inglés in the Plaza Magdalena is this El Berrocal. There are really two locations, a small bar just across the street from the other offers less seating. Plenty of tapas served up in little cazuelas which are wonderful. You can also get your fill of wild game with things like jabalí (wild boar) and ciervo (deer, or if you prefer another name, venison). The caldereta de ciervo (deer stew) is one of my favorites, plus my friend Karen had me quickly addicted to the bolitas de patata y queso, a fried ball of mashed potato in a cheese sauce. Also take time out to sample some of the fish dish, like the merluza (hake). The key to ordering in this place is looking at the seasonal menu and picking what's fresh.

• croquetas (croquettes)
• bolitas de patata y queso (fried potato croquettes in cheeses sauce)
• caldereta de ciervo (deer stew)

Las Piletas |
: c/ Marques de Paradas, 28. : 954 220 404. : Restaurante Las Piletas
: Andalusian
Just next door to Nu Yor, a nightclub with great mojitos, you'll find La Piletas, a restaurant famous for it's bullfighting atmosphere as well as tapas and plates of traditional Andalusian cuisine. Whether you're looking for a bull's head on the wall or a collection of capes and posters, you won't have to look far once you enter. The food is moderately priced and we tried both the jamón and puntillitas (little fried squid) which were quite good, especially with a cold Cruzcampo on a hot June night.

Across the Triana Bridge and the area to the right and left, and heading back on calle San Jacinto. Many consider most of calle Betis to be Triana. It borders Los Remedios.

Kiosco de las Flores |
: c/ Betis : 954 274 576. : kioscodelasflores.com
: Andalusian / Romantic
Formerly located just next to the Triana bridge (where El Faro de Triana is located now), El Kiosco de las Flores has gone upscale, with a much larger restaurant. Plenty of glass to offer good views of the Plaza de Toros, Cathedral and Torre del Oro across the river. An open air terraza for dining al fresco on cooler nights is a nice choice as well. The specialty has been, and always will be, pescaito frito, carefully prepared fried seafood. The prices are a bit high, the food a good deal better than Rio Grande down the street, and the view perhaps the best reason to come. Certainly a romantic spot.

Casa Cuesta |
: c/ Castilla, 1. : 954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
: Andalusian.
Set on a street corner in Triana, just a few blocks from the bridge, Casa Cuesta has a history of over 100 years (founded in 1880). While a little newer, the shelves behind the bar are a work of art and certainly an antique worth looking over. A large informal are of tables in the front bar area are complimented with a more formal dining room in the back. For dining it would be difficult to find a more pure Andalusian menu, from the starters including jamón, croquetas and salmorejo, to the sampling of typical fish, meat and guisos for the main dishes. A new location on calle Zaragoza brings Casa Cuesta to the center of the city. Still, I am partial to the original, and more historic location in Triana.

El Faro de Triana |
: c/ San Jacinto (Plaza del Altozano). : 954 336 192
: Andalusian
If only for the view it is worth trying at least a tapa just across the river in Triana. With four levels to choose from – both indoor and outdoor – you get a great view of the river, the Triana bridge and the rest of the center of Sevilla. The food is decent enough, although you will pay less in other places for the same quality. Bring your camera or just your sunglasses: remember you are here to enjoy the view!

Sol y Sombra |
: c/ Castilla 151. : . : tabernasolysombra.com
: Typical Andalusian
Now occupying three storefronts, or locales, Sol y Sombra's atmosphere is pure toros y feria, as it's name would suggest. While you can eat a full meal in any location by sharing raciones or media raciones, one of the three locations holds a dining room complete with table service. Nothing too fancy and nothing which strays from a typical Andalusian menu. The Sol y Sombra we visited has an historic atmosphere, noticeable as we stepped down into a bar which wrapped around from the entrance to the back. (One way to measure the age of a bar is if you have to step down when you enter: the further the step, the older the bar!). The building has been around since the 1860's while the bar is a bit younger, dating back to the 1960's. Specialties include solomillo al ajo (pork loin cooked with garlic), a variety of revueltos (omelets) as well as samplings of chacina.

La Oliva |
: c/ San Jacinto 73. : 954 333 031
: Typical Andalusian
If you are looking for a cheap, homemade meal, look no further. Everything we tried (listed below) was great, and everything else that came out of the kitchen made me even hungrier. It may be a hike from the center, but well worth it. No fancy presentation, just straight Andalusian specialties served in tapa, media racion and racion. Choose from two dining rooms, one in the front, and one behind the kitchen, as well as a few tables outside or a place at the bar. There is a lot of seating but it fills up quickly in what is almost 100% locals. Again, this is a place with a very typical Andalusian menu, and half of it is fried!

• croquetas de jamón (ham croquettes)
• pavia de bacalao (salty loin of cod, fried)
• solomillo con bacon (pork loin, bacon and a fried green pepper as a sandwich)
• cola de langosta (lobster tail, although fake, with cocktail sauce)
• chipirones a la plancha (grilled squid)
• serranito (pork loin, ham, and fried green pepper as a sandwich)

Crossing over Avda Menéndez y Pelayo from Puerta Carmona. La Buhaira is the area between around the three parallel streets: calle de Enramadilla, Eduardo Dato and Luis Montoto, crossed with the Avda de la Buhaira. It borders Viapol and the Porvenir and Nervión neighborhoods. Nervión is past La Buhaira, bordering the Santa Justa neighborhood (around the train station). Nervión is mainly the area around the large mall and the Sevilla F.C. stadium.

La Dehesa |
: Calle Luis de Morales, 2. : 954 579 400
: Andalusian
Technically a hotel restaurant (Hotel Meliá Lebreros), although with a separate entrance on the street, La Dehesa's specialty is meat, charcoal grilled to perfection. A large bar area provides ample space for tapas, with an even larger dining room serving a complete meal. While wonderful cuts of pork are available, my recommendations would be the chuletón de buey (steak) or just about any of the cordero (lamb) on the menu. The salmorejo (think gazpacho but thicker and sweeter) is also excellent.

Meson del Asador Sinai |
: c/Sinai 19. : 954 576 350
: Andalusian
A great place for a Sunday lunch, just make it here early to get a table. Meat is certainly the specialty here, with your choice of pork, beef or lamb. We ordered thin slices of beef filet which we then cooked ourselves over a small grill with fresh coals, brought to our table. Another one of my favorites is the presa ibérica, nice cutlets of high quality pork grilled and served, of course, with potatoes. The parillada offers a selection of grilled sausages, which is good to order with several people. The desserts are homemade and well worth it if you still have the appetite.

El Rincón de la Buhaira |
: c/ José de la Cámara 3. : 954 534 740
: Andalusian / Innovative
Another place to get to early rather than later, especially on a weekend night. El Rincón de la Buhaira is located in La Buhaira of course, a neighborhood on your way out to Nervión, on a parallel street to Luis Montoto. We had a meal so wonderful we left feeling drunk from all of the food, or was that the complimentary shot of liqueur we had on our way out? This bar was founded by a former waiter of Bar El Yebra, a famous place among locals for tapas. The dining room adjacent to the bar is small, so a reservation for dinner or lunch may be wise. Try the revuelto con chorizo famous here and at El Yebra.

Cerveceria La Reina |
: Avda. de la Buhaira 8. : 954 415 836
: Andalusian
We've enjoyed a few visits recently with family and found this a good place for lunch. A wide variety of seafood, plus several daily specials. Best of all the service has been very good. We have always sat outside where there are a number of tables. Afterwards you can stroll in the Jardines de la Buhaira, the gardens just a minute away. While raciones and media raciones are the typical order, I still list this as a good restaurant experience, where you can sit down and eat a full meal.

Taberna Tabalá |
: c/ Juan de la Sierra. : 954 530 703 : tabernastabala.com
: Huelva.
Just around the corner from El Rincón de la Buhaira we recently discovered this "tavern". We were pleasantly surprised with a long list of chacina, or cured meats. Plus plenty of other meat-based treats and tapas hailing from the region around Aracena. This area in the hills close to Portugal is famous for jamón among other things. We especially enjoyed the presa mechada, which is a spice or two away from corned-beef, even if it's made from pork. Served with manteca blanca, a white butter-like substance made from 100% pork fat, this could be the last dish you ever eat if you have a cholesterol problem. As in they may be rushing you off to the hospital afterwards! The homemade croquetas were also excellent. If you crave a good selection of cured meats, this is a great place to go.

• presa mechada con manteca blanca (cooked pork with a side of 100% lard!)
• croquetas caseras (homemade croquettes)