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Patience
Embarrassment
Life is not fair
English
Personal space
Line breaking
Organized chaos?
Bag it
Don't touch the fruit!
Throw it on the floor
Keep your feet on the ground
Ahora y ahora mismo
Smoke
Mucha gente
Beer, beer, everywhere
Aw, crap
Walking in the shade
Generations mix
The myth of sangria
The myth of gazpacho
The myth of paella
Agua De
Sevilla
Feria and the tiendas
Don't eat the oranges
Hey waiter
Children in the bars
Have a drink on me
Curiosity killed the cat, but not the Spaniard
Staring
Nudity
Overindulgence: It's not how much you've
drank, it's where you've been
Is this a napkin?
How much was that? The peseta lives on
No diet, thanks, I just want it Light or
with saccharin
Does red mean stop?
What street are we on?
There's always more than one...
Don't worry, I trust you
You're fatter!...Name calling.
Collecting at the newsstand
The etiquette of double parking
Take a number
Patience
You read this everywhere I'm sure but I'll repeat it. Things
go at a slower pace so be prepared to wait at banks, stores,
bars, restaurants and tourist offices. Waiters and bartenders
generally don't work off tips, and while service is generally
good they aren't bending over backwards to meet your every
need. Yet I've never in my life seen people work harder or
faster than they do in some of the bars and restaurants here
when things are busy. As for working for tips from my point
of view that's great. I can't think of anything I hate more
than a waiter trying to find something to chat about when
the time for the check nears. I'm here to eat, not to bond
with the staff. Some other examples of the patience we've
had to exercise here:
- We waited 5 or more weeks for our television to be fixed.
We called every other day and were promised it would be
ready "by the end of the week" every time we
called.
- We waited over 3 weeks to get our mattress delivered.
I couldn't help but think about 1-800-Mattress in the
U.S., with their same or next day service, as I slept
on my old bed.
- We plan for 20 minutes to wait in line each time we
visit our bank, although sometimes it takes less.
- We signed up for automatic bank drafts twice since July
with Telefonica. Each month after we signed up a new bill
came in the mail saying we had to take it to the bank
and pay the balance. When we called to complain they said
they didn't have our information and we signed up again.
Three months later and we're still waiting for our first
bill to be drafted from the account.
Embarrassment
Love it, embrace it, hug it like you can't get enough of it
because if you're really worried about embarrassing yourself
here than you're going to have a hard time. You can't be an
expert on the language and culture or know how they do everything.
To worry yourself about everything you say or do will keep
you from learning more and in many cases advancing your confidence.
A little guts with no fear to speak will have others laughing
at you from time to time, but you'll make it much further.
Every time you learn how to ask for, do or get something it
makes it that much easier the rest of the time you're here.
And think about it - Sevillanos see and hear these
mistakes almost every day so it's nothing new to them. Most
of the time when you try to speak or make a mistake you can
just smile and the person behind the bar or desk will happily
help you. Sometimes they won't, but remember you can find
jerks everywhere in this world.
Life is not fair
Remember that saying you always hated hearing from your parents
and teachers? Try and think of this often before you come
here. Many Americans and others feel entitled to be treated
equally, but that may not always be the case in Spain or Seville.
The bartender may serve his friends or regulars first even
though you've been there longer trying to flag him down. Some
people may get olives with their beer while you get only the
beer. They may even serve others larger portions of tapas.
The store employee may first serve that person who broke in
line right in front of you (see below). The person behind
the counter in the hardware store may decide they don't have
what you want even though you know they do. Someone in El
Corte Inglés may tell you there is no way to connect
a DVD player to your type of television when there are several
ways (hint to the fellow who told us this - I'm watching DVDs
just fine on my type of television). These examples
are exceptions, not the rule, but they do happen.
English
Don't expect a lot of English, but do expect waiters and other
people to be helpful when you are trying to order something
or find your way around here. A little Spanish goes a long
way, so try to speak what you can. And practice the art of
gesturing a lot - when you can't say something maybe a shrug
or a flailing of hands will bring you some luck, if not some
laughs.
Personal space
Many of you living in a city in the U.S. already have this
one down. In Seville and most of Spain personal space is a
much smaller buffer zone. Bumping into or brushing by a person
on the street requires a quick perdon and generally
nothing more (depending on whether you just knocked down that
little old lady). It's not an affront to you or your area
and not a reason to become unreasonably angry. Unlike many
places in the U.S. you tend to see your neighbors more often
and at closer range as you all enter through the same door
in the building, hang your laundry on the same roof and walk
the same street every day. Quite a difference from waving
politely to your neighbor across the yard from your driveway.
In terms of the difference between Spain and the U.S. I always
think of my trips to the grocery while visiting home. Almost
everyone who walked by me in the U.S. while I stared at the
selection on the shelves said "excuse me". But why?
I'm here shopping and certainly coming within 2-3 feet of
me doesn't warrant an apology.
Line breaking
Don't be surprised if that little, (seemingly) sweet old lady
pushes her way in front of you when you've been waiting for
10 or 15 minutes. And don't be surprised when they attend
to her before you. If you're in a store talking to an employee
and someone has a question don't be taken aback if they interrupt
your conversation to ask a question. I don't recommend you
break in line, too, but don't be afraid to push your way through
a crowd to get to where you need to go or speak up a little
when you need a question answered.
Organized chaos?
What seems to be out of control really is well under control.
How do those bartenders keep up with your tab when there are
40 people in the bar? Why isn't everyone losing their minds
as they try and make their way through the Semana Santa crowds?
Little social rules guide behavior so it's not such a strange
or chaotic situation to Sevillanos as it is to visitors.
Although many times things are more orderly here - try the
butcher, cheese or fruit counters at El Corte Inglés.
I prefer the "take a number" method to my deli counter
back home, where everyone relies on common courtesy to say
who is next when the attendant asks.
Bag it
What do do when the person at the checkout counter of the
grocery store tosses a few plastic bags in the direction of
your groceries? Put your stuff in a bag, of course! Unlike
the U.S. don't expect anyone to come by and bag your groceries
for you. You're expected to pack them yourself in most any
supermarket so the checker can move on to the next person
in line. Likewise, you are expected to take all of your groceries
out of the cart or basket and place them on the conveyer belt
for the checker to ring you up.
Don't touch the fruit!
Many times in supermarkets you need to wait for the attendant
to pick your fruit. Unlike in the U.S. you can't always reach
out and squeeze that tomato or plum to see if it is ripe.
You can, however, ask that they pick out a certain piece of
fruit for you if it looks good. In general if there is an
attendant around it's wise to ask first if you can touch.
Throw it on the floor
Is the floor in that tapas bar really that dirty? Well, yes,
but it's ok. What are all those people doing throwing their
trash on the floor? Keeping things clean. While it doesn't
take place in the nicer restaurants you'll see many people
exercising their rights to throw napkins, olive pits and cigarette
butts on the floor. Not to worry, someone will come by later
and clean it up, but it sure keeps the mess off the counters.
Keep your feet on the ground
You're relaxing outside at a cafe so why not stretch out and
kick your feet up on the seat next to you? If you do so you
may be asked to put them back on the ground. Many vacationing
Americans see care-free Spain and think doing this couldn't
offend anyone. But the street is probably the dirtiest thing
around. Why else would those little old ladies spend so much
time mopping the sidewalk in front of their house? Putting
your feet, which surely have been touching the ground recently
unless your vacation is going all too well, on a seat is putting
all of the dirt, dog crap and anything else from the street
where someone plans to sit.
Ahora y ahora mismo
What does it mean when a bartender or store clerk says he
will help you - ahora, le atiende - and then walks
off? Ahora means now, doesn't it? Sort of. Many times ahora means in just a minute, or your next when I
finish what I'm doing. Ahora mismo, however, means
"right now".
Smoke
Spaniards smoke everywhere and you'll still see the occasional
fool smoking in the department store even though there are
no smoking signs. The only place I've seen the no smoking
rule completely respected is in hospitals. So be prepared
to inhale second hand smoke. And I've never, seen anyone,
anywhere ask the person next to them to please put out their
cigarette, except once in a movie theatre about 10 years ago.
And hey, you shouldn't smoke there.
Mucha Gente
Why are there 100 people spilling into the streets while trying
to squeeze into that bar that only holds 25? Spaniards like
to be where the action is. An empty bar is empty for a reason.
In an American's eyes this may be an advantage but in a Spaniard's
eyes this is a sign: it's not the place to be tonight.
Beer, beer, everywhere
In McDonalds, for example. Or in the corner market, the bread
store, a drink machine. You can find beer almost anywhere.
And that goes for liquor as well. Not controlled by some puritan
state law, you can buy a bottle of whisky in most food stores,
as well as get a mixed drink in most any bar. I can even get
a bottle of rum in my local video store. While not always
the case, many locals drink in moderation. Sure, six or so
drinks are nice, but not in the same place. Making, or rather
walking, your way to each bar tends to burn that stuff off.
Many also prefer a beer or wine with lunch or dinner rather
than a Coke.
Aw, crap
Dogs are wonderful - I am a dog lover. Despite laws in the
city that owners must pick up their dog's business hardly
anyone does it. It is tempting to look up at all the buildings
and monuments, or just the beautiful blue sky in Seville.
I have learned to keep one eye on the ground when walking
around to keep my shoes clean. So far this year I've yet to
step in any but the dogs are doing their best to get me. And
while near the Cathedral and other tourist sites in the center
keep an eye out for horse crap, too.
Walking in the shade
I know this one seems obvious, but it is a necessary practice
in the summer heat to keep yourself going. You'll see plenty
of people cross the street to walk in the shade - follow their
lead! In June they place toldos or tarps over the
narrower streets in the center to keep everyone in the shade.
Another way to keep yourself out of the sun is to keep a Spanish
schedule. Eat at 3pm, and take a nap or relax afterwards.
Then head out around 5:30 or later so you avoid the hottest
part of the day. Remember, in the summer there's light until
10pm, so there's no rush.
Generations mix
One thing that sometimes surprises people visiting Seville
is the generational mix. It's not uncommon to see a whole
family sitting outside at a bar, perhaps even 4 generations
from the great-grandmother to the great-grandchildren. Don't
be surprised to see a mother, her daughter and her
daughter walking arm in arm down the street. It's not that
this doesn't happen in the U.S. or elsewhere, it's the fact
that this is not a rare occurrence in Spain.
The myth of sangria
Many travelers think of Spain and they automatically think
of casually sipping sangria outside of a bar. The problem
is most bars don't have sangria, and more often than not those
that do are tourist bars. Sangria is a wonderful drink, they
just don't go to the trouble of making it every day in every
bar. I see many tourists pointing at glasses of tinto
de verano and asking the bartender for sangria. So what
is a tinto de verano? It's red wine on ice mixed
with your choice of soda: blanco, limon or naranja. If
you are dying to try sangria but can't find it anywhere try
this instead. While simpler and not exactly the same it does
the trick. Plus it's easier to make at home when you get back
to the states.
The myth of gazpacho
Ditto on the above - many think gazpacho is everywhere. It
generally is, but generally during spring and summer, and
not very common in fall or winter. Many menus will even list
gazpacho en verano. Also, don't be surprised to have
your gazpacho served to you in a glass instead of a bowl.
This is more common in tapas bars. Some restaurants will server
gazpacho in a bowl with guarnicion- little bits of
green pepper, fried bread, ham and hard boiled egg. And while
gazpacho gets all the hype many people fail to ever try salmorejo
- it's like gazpacho, but always served in a bowl, most
often with bits of serrano ham. It's thicker and a bit sweeter
than gazpacho.
The myth of paella
Paella is everywhere here, although maybe in
a little different form than what you see in the pictures.
They tend to call it simply arroz (rice) in Seville,
and while many bars and restaurants offer it every day a lot
don't. You'll discover places offer it only on Saturday and
Sunday. As for that picture you have in your head of a large
dish with delicately arranged seafood on the top - try to
forget it. Most of the time it comes in a big scoop on a plate.
Expect different variations wherever you go, with possible
combinations of chicken, shrimp, pork, squid and clams. In
the nicer restaurants you can order paella and get what you've
seen in those magazines, but it'll likely taste the same.
Agua De Sevilla
It runs through the river between el centro and
Triana, but it also is a popular drink offered at a few bars
here. Try this instead of sangria if you're feeling bold.
Don't finish the night up with a pitcher of it, though, as
it packs a punch. Served in jaras (pitcher) or media
jaras (half-pitchers) be prepared to pay a hefty price
- anywhere from 20-30€ for a pitcher. Here's what's
in it:
- zumo de piña (pineapple juice)
- champagne
- whisky
- ron (rum)
- Licor 43
- Cointreau
- nata (whipped cream: on top and then stirred
in)
- azucar moreno (brown sugar)
- hielo (ice)
Feria, las casetas and how to have a good time
there
Feria is a very festive time in Seville. It's a fair in Seville
with a lot of tents where everyone's drinking and dancing,
right? Well, it's in Seville but across the river on the other
side of Los Remedios. Just a little hike to get there but
not too far. What you can't do when you get there is enter
most of the tents or casetas, as many are private.
A few community tents are open to everyone, though. Feria
is a great time, although the daylight hours may be the best
for visiting. On some nights it's crowded and often hard to
move around, and you can expect the folks in the crowd to
be well past drunk. Like fairs in the U.S. expect overpriced
food and drink and the same kind of carnival games and rides
in the appropriately named calle de infierno.
Don't eat the oranges
Orange trees in the spring provide flowers and the wonderful
smell of azahar. Then there's the color of the oranges
which brightens up the sidewalks and makes for great pictures.
Later there's the wonderful smell as oranges fall to the ground
and are crushed by the passing cars. A nice ripe orange looks
thirst quenching, but don't try and eat them - they aren't
so tasty. Most of the oranges are collected later and shipped
off to make orange marmalade, which better suits their bitter
taste.
Hey waiter
As explained above the waiters don't work off tips, but they
do work hard. When sitting outside at a bar or restaurant
I've found that they are harder to flag down to order that
second round of drinks or tapas. And when the time comes for
the check it seems there's a blind spot in front of your table.
You must ask for the check in almost all cases. People like
to linger at tables and waiters won't chase you off by bringing
you the check (hint, hint) after you finish your meal. And
don't always expect wait service at the tables. Some bars
have tables inside and outside but you have to order at the
bar and bring it yourself to the table. It's called autoservicio.
Children in the bars
The generations mix, including in los bares. Some
are shocked to see a a couple with their 8 month-old and 4
year-old in a bar at 1am. Not only is it smoke-filled, but
the children should have been in bed by 8 or 9pm! Two things
will help you understand what's going on. First, while bars
in the U.S. are for people 21 and older there are many with
a family atmosphere in Spain. Just because it says "bar"
outside doesn't mean it's all sports, dancing and lots of
beer drinking. Second, bedtimes for children here are much
later - consider that dinner is often served at 9 or 10pm
and sometimes later in the summer. And there are plenty of
people who may frown upon someone bringing their children
to a bar - it's just not an uncommon site.
Have a drink on me
When out with Spaniards it's often custom to pay for a round
of drinks rather than splitting things up. Or sometimes you
or they may pay for several rounds in one place. The next
round or place and it's your turn. Sometimes you come out
ahead while other times you don't. Now worries - it'll all
even out eventually.
Curiosity killed the cat, but not the Spaniard
Groups form quickly here: in the street, outside a bar, near
a street performer or next to a store window. There are many
magnetic situations that attract people: a couple arguing,
a group practicing for a Cruz de Mayo, a strange
noise or just about anyone giving out anything for free ("What's
free?!? Where?? I don't care. I want it!"). Most Spaniards
I've met are the first ones to tell me they're simply a curious
bunch. There is often no shame in watching the spectacle,
whatever it may be, because it's ok to stop everything you're
doing, run into the street and see what's going on.
Staring
Curiosity breeds the art of staring. In the U.S. this can
get you into trouble with the wrong people ("What're you looking at?!?"). Here if you look a bit
different or are simply walking by someone in the street be
ready for others to stare at you. And don't be surprised if
they look longer than a few seconds. Unlike the U.S. it's
not time to square off and get into a defensive position.
Sure, some people may be muttering some insult about foreigners
under their breath, but the majority are simply curious and
getting a better look.
Nudity
This one's well known and you're in Europe, so I won't go
into it too much. Just don't be surprised to see breasts,
a butt or even complete nudity in a magazine, a poster, on
regular TV (an ad or when showing an R-rated movie). Some
local television stations also show explicit adult shows and
movies after midnight. And yes, some women, although
very few, are topless on the beaches...
It's not how much you've drank, it's where you've been
For the younger of the visitors here, most folks are not interested
in how much you drank last night. Sitting in one bar and downing
beer after shot after beer is not going to win you many prizes
or much respect. Most people going out here tend to hop from
one place to another, drinking a round or two and then heading
on to the next place. Others may slowly "marinate"
in one place for several hours but the party will move on
to another spot. All the walking involved in la marcha helps burn of the alcohol, if you're interested in doing
that (you should be!). Many do get drunk, but in general you
see less ridiculous behavior when you're in a bar than when
in the U.S.
Is this a napkin?
Your sitting in a bar eating a tapa, your hands are a little
greasy and you reach for a napkin. But wait, what is this
semi-transparent thing you just pulled out of the napkin holder?
With the absorbent power to handle maybe 3 drops of water,
it may take 4 or 5 of these to clean yourself up. Cloth napkins
will be available in some nice restaurants, but otherwise
you'll need to get used to these little guys masquerading
as napkins.
How much was that? The peseta lives on
Just because the currency changed doesn't mean the thinking
has. While prices for smaller things are often only listed
in Euros it's a challenge to rent an apartment or make a larger
purchase without someone either first telling you the price
in pesetas, and then letting you do the math, or converting
it the second they tell you the price in Euros. While it may
seem strange to hang on to the old currency many people spent
their lives earning and saving in pesetas, so the mental calculations
don't go away that easy.
No diet, thanks, I just want it Light or with saccharin
Not everyone is diet crazed in Spain, so when you're looking
for sugar-free soft drinks ask for a light, as in Coca-Cola
Light, instead of Diet Coke. And if you've long forgotten
about Tab and it's saccharin filled goodness, well it's alive
and well in Spain and in most supermarkets.
Does red mean stop?
When it comes to traffic lights I used to think so. And while
most people stop for a red light it's not uncommon to see
a car slow down and then "sneak through" if nobody
is crossing the other way. And as for mopeds they're the worst,
most of them thinking they have the right to run through any
light. So remember that old saying "left, right, then
left again"? Make good use of it here.
What street are we on?
I've seen people complain about the lack of street signs when
they're trying to find their way around the center of Sevilla.
Often I find it's the opposite, and it's not just the number
of signs, but the number of names for what (to me) should
be the same street. Take one that runs from close to Plaza
de Armas all the way to Santa Catalina. Maybe 2 kilometers
in length and almost completely straight, it starts as Alfonso
XII for about 1 kilometer which I can understand, then goes
through a series of name changes over the last length. In
10 minutes I can walk on the same straight street while it
changes names from: Calle Campana, to Martin Villa, Laraña,
Imagen, Almirante Apodaca, and finally Juan de Mesa. The locals
use one or two of the names for convenience, but it can make
navigating for the visitor a nightmare.
There's always more than one...
I learned quickly that there's more than one Bar Manolo, and
it's the case for many restaurants and bars. Make sure you
know your neighborhoods, or your friends may be waiting for
you at the El Tremendo on the other side of town while you
sit patiently with Curro the dog at the one in Santa Catalina.
Don't worry, I trust you
Somewhat related to the above organized chaos theory, but
some may find it strange that you can order a beer at many
bars and walk outside without paying. Plenty of places do
ask you to pay up before walking away, but just as many figure
you'll come back for more, or at least feel a little sense
of moral obligation to pay up once you're done. It works most
of the time and it's easier than the bartenders making change
- they'd rather keep the beer flowing so their customers don't
have to wait!
You're fatter! Name calling
I don't know whether they're just thick skinned or folks in
the States and the UK are too "PC". I still remember
my future father-in-law seeing me after some months and remarking
that I was much fatter than before. Whether serious or not,
some names and adjectives get thrown around to friends and
family that would never make it back home. Calling someone gordo (fat) is not always an insult. Just be ready
to hear a few things which translated literally might offend
the thin skinned.
Collecting at the newsstand
Stopping at a newsstand in Spain is always a bit of entertainment.
I spoke with a fellow from Barcelona living in the U.S. who
mentioned what he missed most were the kioscos, "There's
always something interesting there". Indeed if you like
to collect just about anything keep an eye out at the newsstands
and for commercials on TV. The list is endless: toys, corkscrews,
lighters, cookbooks, software, DVDs, music, posters, pens,
models.... Every day I see something else I can collect just
by purchasing the Sunday paper or a magazine. Sometimes you
have to pay a little extra and other times it's free with
the price of the periodical. My future father-in-law is a
professional newsstand collector but only selects the best
items/offers. He's collected so many things that he no longer
keeps them. We get gifts from time to time instead as it's
become more of a sport for him.
The etiquette of double parking
In cities like Madrid and Barcelona they have cracked down
(somewhat) on double parking. The activity still lives on
in Sevilla with plenty of professional double parkers who
don't have time to look for a space. When you do double park
there are two rules: 1) be somewhere nearby so the poor soul
who is blocked in can use their horn to put you on the run
back to move your car out of the way. 2) If you parallel double
park in front of someone it may be enough to leave your car
in neutral with the doors locked. The people blocked in can
then nudge your car out of the way to get out of their spot.
This works particularly well in Sevilla because of a lack
of hills in the city.
Take a number
Perhaps you've read above that line breaking happens from
time to time in Sevilla. While it's often overlooked there
are plenty of situations where they've decided a more organized
situation is preferable. If you plan to shop or take care
of a little business you'll need to take a number and wait
your turn. These places include many banks, government offices,
the post office, some electronics stores, and deli and fruit
counters in supermarkets. Most often you just need to take
a general number, while in the post office and some banks
there may be separate numbers depending on your need. If I
walk into the post office I have 4 separate numbers I can
request for different lines - to send a package, pick up a
package, send mass mailings, etc.
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